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Dusting Off the Cookbooks: Adventures in Historical Recipes

Published: at 11:00 PM

Ever find yourself staring at a recipe, wondering, ‘Who even came up with this?’ Well, I often do. Except, sometimes I’m not just curious about the chef behind the dish, but also about the time they lived in. This is where the fun of recreating historical recipes comes in. It’s not just about cooking, it’s a journey through time, a way to connect with people who lived centuries before us, one questionable ingredient at a time.

Let’s be real, some historical recipes are, to put it mildly, a bit wild. I once tried a Roman recipe for ‘Isicia Omentata’, basically a minced meat patty wrapped in caul fat. It was from Apicius’s ‘De Re Coquinaria’ (circa 4th-5th century CE) (Apicius, De Re Coquinaria, Book IV, 2). The concept wasn’t terrible, but the lack of precise measurements and reliance on ‘taste’ as a guide made it a bit of a gamble. The result? Something that was… rustic, let’s say. But here’s the thing: that’s part of the charm. It’s about understanding the limitations of their kitchens, the ingredients available, and the culinary culture of their time.

Another great example can be found in medieval recipe books, you encounter interesting combinations like almond milk with spices and other things that seem odd to our modern pallets. Think of it as a way to appreciate how far culinary techniques and tastes have evolved. Take, for instance, a recipe for Blancmange from ‘The Forme of Cury’ (circa 1390) (Samuel Pegge, The Forme of Cury, A Roll of Ancient English Cookery). This medieval treat wasn’t the blancmange we know today but rather a concoction of chicken, almond milk, and sugar. Trying it out wasn’t exactly a flavor explosion for me, but it did make me appreciate the subtle flavors that were important back then.

Why go through all this effort? Well, aside from the occasional kitchen mishap, it’s a chance to learn. It’s a lesson in social history, a way to see food as a reflection of the society that created it. And, who knows, you might just stumble upon a long-lost delicacy. Even if you end up with a culinary ‘what was I thinking?’, there’s always a story to tell and a new understanding of what it means to cook through time. So, next time you’re looking for a cooking challenge, consider going back in time. You might just be surprised by what you find – and maybe what you can stomach.


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